Bilbo Baggins probably didn’t expect to encounter trolls and wargs while on his adventure with the dwarves to reclaim their treasure from the dragon, but with adventures come the exhilarating surprises as well as the mind-blowing stressfully unexpected. I arrived in the Philippines not knowing a soul, not really knowing what I would do, and feeling like I was standing on the edge of a cliff about to fall off. It was my first experience being so totally on my own in a foreign country, and I felt so thrust into this situation rather than actually choosing it, but sometimes the most stressful circumstances are also the most rewarding, and you laugh the most at yourself in the end. This was one of those times.
After three too many days in Manila (I was there only 2 1/2 days), and many an hour spent in Seattle’s Best Coffee and movie theaters to avoid the disgusting, overcrowded city (I felt I made a valid attempt at seeing some things, so didn’t feel too guilty at breaking my normal travel rules of not doing anything American in a foreign country, but I did enjoy Pirates of the Caribbean!), I went northbound in search of the Banaue rice terraces sited in 1000 Places to See Before You Die.
Then I went further north still to Sagada in a jeepney- a colorful, truck-looking thing. On the way I chatted with Benny “the Viking”, a guy from Norway who actually lived in Minnesota for a while. We went spelunking together in the Big Cave in Sagada, a quiet little mountain village filled with the fresh aroma of pine trees. We followed Roger the guide down into the cave, and the kerosene lamp he carried quickly became our only light. The first bit was pretty slippery, then Roger the guide told us to take off our shoes. Hmmmm, really?! “Not slippery anymore,” he says. I didn’t believe him, but turns out he was right.
The cave bottom turned into steadily flowing ankle-deep water. The surface of the rock was quite rough, but the overall shape of it was smooth from years of flowing water. A couple rock climbing maneuvers later found us at the end of the cave at a little pool where Benny went swimming. On the way out, the kerosene lamp went out, and Roger couldn’t get it relit. Instead of freaking out, I just laughed and stood there, glad it wasn’t my problem. I wasn’t moving until I could see my hand in front of my face again. Roger whips out a candle, and after a few minutes, the lamp is fired up again. “A good guide is always prepared,” he says. Up the knotted rope and out of the cave we went. What a nice little adventure for the day!
Every afternoon the clouds rolled in and rumbled loudly, followed by the sky opening up. I enjoyed these afternoon thunderstorms very much. They reminded me of home.
Then it was time to head back to Manila to catch my plane. As our bus careened around yet another curve on the Halsema Mountain Highway (“highway” being somewhat misleading; gravel-strewn trail is more like it), I peered down onto tin rooftops and farming terraces descending down in varying colors into the valley for hundreds of feet. Never mind that newspaper headlines to the effect of “Bus Packed with Passengers Topples off Edge of Cliff in Mountains North of Manila” flash through my head, as the top of the bus sways too far for my liking in the direction of the drop off.
During rest stops, locals swarm the bus lifting up baskets of snacks for sale. But, the Filipinos got off the bus for a more adventurous (to me anyway, but to them, it’s like a hot dog is to a New Yorker) local treat called balut. It’s a boiled duck egg with the fetus inside that they slurp out of the shell. I contemplated for a micro-second eating one, but then decided I didn’t want to risk further traumatizing myself after my deadly (for him) encounter with a squawking cockroach the other day in my room. I don’t care how many roaches I’ve seen, they still give me the heebie-jeebies. I’ve eaten enough other strange things in my life anyway.
I’ve now conquered my fears about traveling alone, at least in the Philippines. And it’s an exhilarating feeling. I will now proceed to Vietnam- where I was supposed to meet up with photographer friends, who all bailed on me- yeah, you know who you are! I miss you and hate you for it, tongue-in-cheek. Hmmmmm… I think I’m noticing a pattern here- friends that bail. Good thing it’s easy to make lots of new friends on the travel trail! Eat your hearts out, boys! :)
3 Comments
If I could, I would fly over right now and join you!! I’m so jealous! God bless you, friend.
I agree with Coley – I want to come and travel with you. This is all so impressive – I am proud of you. I love you!
Mom
Hey, just so you know I read this blog every day and have been waiting to hear something about how Vietnam is going. Also have some questions for you if you are still considering going to Thailand and a possible suggestion for another photo project..